How To Repair Replace Jayco Roof
GMC Jayco wrote:
I bought a 95 Jayco 30BH mid year this yr and have a roof repair question.When we get-go looked at information technology I noticed at that place was a precipitous dip down in the ceiling inside virtually the A/C,like the corner of 2x4 caryatid or something.We bought if from a widow lady that requite me all the reciepts for piece of work washed which included a make new roof a few years back..They ended upwards having to shim around the A/C unit becouse of water leaking in around it.I later establish out afterward visiting the park where the RV was stationary when she had it,that a tree had fallen on the roof,and the possessor of the park cut it down,and never told her virtually information technology.From inside and out information technology is very solid w/ no leaks but every time I enter the camper it sticks out to me.I noticed there were 2 layers of woods on the roof from removing a vent cover from inside..I dont want to open up pandora,s box but I want it all back equally normal.Is there abroad to just repair the surface area around the unit and replace the prophylactic roof in that section w/o having to remove the side tracks for gutter and awning.Or practise I just seize with teeth the bullet and pull the entire roof off,fix the construction trouble around the A/C and re roof the entire affair? Isnt there suppose to be just 1 main roof panel plus mayhap a thin sheet instead to 2 primary panels on top of each other?..I am trying to put a game programme together for the spring.I am very handy and program on doing all the work myself.Thank you and distressing for the long postal service..I welcome all suggestions and comments
Equally far as the roof goes... To do it correctly, you demand to strip the entire roof. This includes metal guttering and strips, AC, Roof vents, skylights, refer vent, Television receiver antennas, FM antennas, tank vents, and anything else that is up there. If the awning is meridian mounted well-nigh the roof line, that will have to exist removed besides. From hither you could assess the damage and replace and capsule and broken roof members. And then y'all can go through the entire process of replacing the rubber membrane. The roof will come in a kit. The rubber, the sealant, the brushes, ect. And then everything y'all removed volition have to exist claened and put back in identify and re sealed.
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The only reason that it bothers you lot is the artful value? You know that it is at that place and information technology bugs you? Is this right?
Is the dip equally visible from the top too?
Danny
* This post was edited 12/13/09 08:45pm by an administrator/moderator *
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Y'all can't take the Fisherman out of this Camper wrote:
I would remove the A/C unit of measurement and accept a closer look to meet if I tin can detect exactly what causes the problem. If it can exist fixed without removing or dissentious the rubber roof... Great! If non, I would repair the structure, buy a new piece of rubber roof large enough to surroundings the A/C unit, glue information technology on properly.. including a expert overlap on the existing roof so get a curl of eternabond to seal the new edges of the new piece of roofing. I doubt that you would have whatever problems later on that... but if you did, the choice of replacing the whole roof is still always available. Afterwards all, this unit is at present about fifteen years old, and the existing roof has already been replaced within the last few years, so I call up redoing the whole roof is but looking for more work than you really need to exercise.
That would exist my plan of assault. Nosotros seal vents, roof seams, etc. all the time with Eternabond and then I don't come across why you couldn't do the same for a skilful portion of the roof effectually the A/C. Set up what's broken and don't open yourself up to more potential problems downward stream.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.x rear and 2007 Vacation Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
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GMC Jayco wrote:
Thanks for the comments and suggestions.I was at CampingWorld today and paid attention to a Jayco just like mine and noticed his roof was shorter than mine on the sides upwards from the rails,So when i got home I done some checking and found the knuckle heads that put a new roof on didnt lie nigh it.They put another layer of wood on peak of the existing forest and installed a new rubber roof.What a waste of a new roof,And so I have decided this bound to completely remove both layers,go back with what its supposed to have,fix any truss issues,and so install a new rubber roof along with converting some of the roof vents to sky lights.And then I take some planning to do over the winter I suppose..Any thoughts or comments are welcome..If I take to supercede whatever rafters,is in that location a way to remove the rafter w/o damaging the inside panel?And what thickness do I need to go dorsum with on my new roof forest?..Thanks
All that is fine ... EXCEPT the skylight thing. I take read a lot of posts on these things cracking and even causing leaks. Many of the skylights are all plastic w/o a metal frame or lip similar on regular vents and then information technology's much harder to get a good long lasting seal and the skylights are usually larger. If I had a trailer with a skylight or ii and was doing what you planned to do I would seriously consider converting the skylights to regular vents where the frame and mounting construction is good basically forever and the covers and cheap and easily replaceable.
I'm saying that in this i area of your thinking on skylights, IMO you are going in the wrong direction.
Larry
Jayco254 wrote:
I don't know what the price on your roof will be, only for a 26'11" Jayfeather roof from Jayco it was well-nigh $2000 plus shipping and installation. Full was effectually $10,500 installed. And so if you can do it yourself you lot'll save a small fortune. And beingness a different model your price could be totaly different.
b_salgado wrote:
snip....Y'all're getting ripped off if it'due south going to cost $10500 for a 27 TT!...snip
I agree....., unless the $10,500 price includes new rafters, plywood, insulation, vents, etc..
IMO get another quote conspicuously stating what material and labor is being provided, from ii different sources.
Turk2500
2022 Silverado 2500HD, half dozen.0L
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GMC Jayco wrote:
I dont totally disagree with the sky light programme comment.As far every bit the double roof I believe that the actress weight deceit be expert for the situation,non to mention what they left underneath.I was also checking the rubber membrain around the edges and it doesnt announced to even be glued down.Somebody did a hack job if you ask me.My ceiling is flat and has A/C ducting in it.I am looking forward to getting this started.I did remodeling for quite a few years office time.Its only the unknown that gets you.I have noticed many on hither take tackled this quite a few times.Within is flat except for the 1 truss that was knocked downwards some,but looking beyond the height information technology seems wavey from panel to panel.Can you lot purchase the new condom roof in a Kit form and where is the cheapest place to effort and source it.I volition start a new post w/ lots of pics when i get it all started.
Yous observation nearly the roof being glued down along the edges ... from my read a lot of roofs have not glued areas since all that is really needed is to have the roof basically attached to the wood underlayment and they probably don't endeavor and glue it very close to the edge and then they don't slop mucilage onto the sides of the trailer during manufacture.
Every bit long equally you are not overweight because of the extra layer of roof underlayment, I would not tackle removing the entire roof just to fix that effect.
Larry
GMC Jayco wrote:
snip.....If I have to replace any rafters,is there a way to remove the rafter w/o damaging the within console?And what thickness practise I need to get back with on my new roof forest?..Thanks
The ceiling panels are fastened to the rafters, simply careful removal of the staples should allow you to re-attach the panels to the new rafter(due south). Be prepared to support (if required) the ceiling panel once the rafter is removed.
I don't recall what the original thickness of the roofing plywood was on my '05' Hawkeye, but when my roof was replaced last winter nosotros utilized plywood that was an additional 1/8" thick.
The following photo shows the rafters exposed after removal of the covering material (ignore the mositure harm):
![[image]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_uDNtZE2-AlKuUzWRnGNQv5ljjZm9fuzrGElMP2tidowMi6tn02Zct3BhHjARqYA8liRGvfYVFso3H31teVBNyW4HrZovY=s0-d)
Continue in mind should y'all accept to replace a rafter you "may" have to contend with wires running through the rafter (depending on your '95' model structure).
Turk2500
GMC Jayco wrote:
Thanks for the comments and suggestions.I was at CampingWorld today and paid attention to a Jayco just like mine and noticed his roof was shorter than mine on the sides up from the rails,So when i got home I done some checking and found the knuckle heads that put a new roof on didnt prevarication nigh it.They put another layer of wood on superlative of the existing wood and installed a new prophylactic roof.What a waste of a new roof,SO I have decided this spring to completely remove both layers,get back with what its supposed to have,fix any truss issues,then install a new rubber roof along with converting some of the roof vents to sky lights.SO I have some planning to do over the winter I suppose..Any thoughts or comments are welcome..If I have to replace any rafters,is at that place a manner to remove the rafter w/o damaging the inside panel?And what thickness exercise I need to become back with on my new roof wood?..Thanks
2010 Jayco 28BHS
2004 Chevy 1500 Ext.Cab 5.3L, iii.73, Bilsteins, Timbren SES
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Prodigy P3
How To Repair Replace Jayco Roof,
Source: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23478622/print/true.cfm
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