How To Set Sagging OBS 1988-1998 Doors With a Hinge Repair Kit
Door hinges vesture out over time, causing the doors to droop. It'due south common on 1988 1998 Chevy and GMC pickups and SUVs, and we fix information technology with a hinge repair kit.
Your car'south door hinges go unappreciated until they wear out, causing the doors to sag. When you consider how much weight they have to support and how often the doors are opened and closed, it'due south a wonder they last as long equally they do. Nonetheless, many years and thousands of cycles will wear the parts out, and that'south what happened with the driver'south door on Project Jake, our 1993 GMC Sierra C1500. A mutual problem with GMT400 (1988 to 1998) Chevrolet and GMC pickups and SUVs, when the doors sag, it causes difficulty closing the door, wind and water leaks, rattles, and misalignment of the torso panels. The ready is relatively simple, and we accomplished the chore on the driver's side in almost two hours.
Symptoms of worn door hinges:
Misaligned body panels and panel gaps
Difficulty closing the door; need to slam it shut
Wind and water leaks from improper contact with weatherstripping
In this photo, you can see the body line misalignment between the rear of the door and the cab corner. The driver'south side door was sagging and hard to close.
The hinges are typical of most vehicles from the era. This is the upper hinge assembly that incorporates the door roller and detent spring. Since our GMC doesn't have power windows or door locks, there is no wiring going into the door. Otherwise, there would be flexible conduit only below the detent spring.
Looking at the habiliment items in the hinge assembly, it'south piece of cake to come across why sagging doors is a common problem. The hinge pins are just three/8 inch at the widest diameter. Combined with the thin bushings, these components support a lot of weight, every bit these doors are iv feet long and full of heavy window glass.
We did invest in some specialty tools to practise this job. At the peak of the picture is a door spring removal tool nosotros purchased from Harbor Freight for less than $x. Definitely worth the money is the Door Hinge Pivot Tool kit, which consists of the curvy punch (heart) and the lever (right) to drive the pins out. We purchased this from LMC Truck (P/N 31-2698) for $21.95, but it's available from several other retailers. We besides bought the new pins and bushings from LMC for $9.95
We did invest in some specialty tools to do this job. At the top of the picture show is a door spring removal tool nosotros purchased from Harbor Freight for less than $ten. Definitely worth the money is the Door Hinge Pin Tool kit, which consists of the curvy punch (eye) and the lever (correct) to drive the pins out. We purchased this from LMC Truck (P/N 31-2698) for $21.95, but it'southward bachelor from several other retailers. Nosotros also bought the new pins and bushings from LMC for $9.95
The door detent spring needs to be removed to gain access to the upper hinge pin.
Our door and bumper stand is adaptable for elevation via the crank on the back, and the platform pivots up and down allowing you to punch in the all-time summit and angle to back up and maneuver the door.
Once the hinge pins are removed and the door separated from the vehicle, this is a very easy job. The old bushings get driven out with a dial, and the new ones are tapped in place.
You do need to be mindful of the orientation of the components. The hinge pins are wider virtually the top, and the corresponding bushing also has a wider inner diameter. The upper hinge has the pin installed with the pointy side facing upwardly, while in the lower hinge, the pin points down, as shown here. Too, the upper bushings are installed on the vehicle side of the hinge, while the lower bushings are installed on the door side.
Equally seen in this this motion picture of the lower hinge on the door side, the bushings were originally installed facing each other, or with the flange facing out of the hinge assembly. We reinstalled the bushings in this orientation on both the upper and lower hinges.
Nosotros used a nut and commodities to draw the lower bushing in for this portion of the door where admission with a punch was difficult.
With the new bushings in place, we rolled the door dorsum into position and installed the new hinge pins and their locking clips, reinstalled the detent spring, and lubricated the moving parts with some calorie-free oil.
The combination of a new striker and the rebuild door hinges fixed the door's sagging attitude and brought the torso panels back into alignment. The door closes more easily, too. This is definitely worth the time.
Hither is a picture of the assembled upper swivel for reference.
Hither is a movie of the assembled lower hinge for reference.
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